Your roof’s drainage system annually diverts thousands of gallons of water from your house’s exterior and foundation walls. That’s why it is so important to keep this system flowing smoothly. Clogged gutters can lead to damaged exterior surfaces and to water in your basement. They are also more prone to rust and corrosion. Before the leaves fly this fall, have your gutters cleaned, then covered with mesh guards to keep debris from returning.

Related: How to Care for Gutters

A home with air leaks around windows and doors is like a coat left unbuttoned. Gaps in caulk and weather-stripping can account for 10 percent of your heating bills, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Weather-stripping is easily the most cost-effective way to rein in heating and cooling costs. This humble material also reduces drafts and keeps your home more comfortable year-round. Because weather stripping can deteriorate over time, it is important to inspect it periodically.

If you suspect a problem with weather stripping, you have several options for checking. Close a door or window on a strip of paper; if the paper slides easily, your weatherstripping isn’t doing its job. Or, close the door or window and hold a lighted candle near the frame. (Don’t let the flame get near anything flammable!) If the flame flickers at any spot along the frame, you have an air leak.

While you’re at it, also check for missing or damaged caulk around windows, doors, and entry points for electrical, cable, phone, gas, and so. Seal any gaps with a suitable caulk.

Related: More Fall Fix-Ups for Your Home

Few homeowner problems are more vexing than a leaky roof. Once the dripping starts, finding the source of the problem can be time-consuming. Stop problems this fall before ice and winter winds turn them from annoyances into disasters.

Start by inspecting your roof from top to bottom, using binoculars if necessary. Check ridge shingles for cracks and wind damage. Look for damage to metal flashing in valleys and around vents and chimneys. Scan the entire roof for missing, curled, or damaged shingles. Look in your gutters for large accumulations of granules, a sign that your roof is losing its coating; expect problems soon. Finally, make sure your gutters are flowing freely.

tOdd-Jobs Tip: Roof-mounted television antennas, even if they aren’t in use, may have guy wires holding them in place. Look for loose or missing guy wires. If you see some, and your antenna is no longer being used, consider having it removed altogether.

Related: Roof Repair Tips Every Homeowner Should Know

If you live in an area with freezing weather, take steps to ensure that outside faucets (also called sill cocks) and inground irrigation systems don’t freeze and burst.

Close any shut-off valves serving outside faucets, then open the outside faucet to drain the line. (There may be a small cap on the faucet you can loosen to facilitate this draining.) If you don’t have shut-off valves, and your faucets are not “freezeproof ” types, you may benefit from styrofoam faucet covers sold at home centers.

To freezeproof an in-ground irrigation system, follow the manufacturer’s procedure for draining it and protecting it from winter damage.

Furnace filters trap dust that would otherwise be deposited on your furniture, woodwork, and so on. Clogged filters make it harder to keep your home at a comfortable temperature, and can serious increase your utility bills. Simple monthly cleaning is all it takes to keep these filters breathing free and clear.

Disposable filters can be vacuumed once before replacement. Foam filters can also be vacuumed, but they don’t need to be replaced unless they are damaged. Use a soft brush on a vacuum cleaner. If the filter is metal or electrostatic, remove and wash it with a firm water spray.

Once a year, it’s a good idea to have your heating system inspected by a professional. To avoid the last-minute rush, consider scheduling this task in early fall, before the heating season begins.

Here are signs that you should have an inspection performed sooner:

Noisy Belts: Unusual screeches or whines may be a signal that belts connected to the blower motor are worn or damaged.

Poor Performance: A heating system that doesn’t seem to work as well as it once did could be a sign of various problems. Your heating ducts might be blocked, the burners might be misadjusted, or the blower motor could be on its last legs. One check you should be sure to conduct: Make sure your furnace filter is clean.

Erratic Behavior: This could be caused by a faulty thermostat or a misadjusted furnace.

Even if you use your fireplace only occasionally, you should check it annually for damage and hazards.

Inspect Your Flue for Creosote: Creosote is a flammable by-product of burning wood. If it accumulates in a flue or chimney, the result can be a devastating fire. Have your chimney inspected annually for creosote buildup. If you use a fireplace or wood stove frequently, have the flue inspected after each cord of wood burned.

For most people, the best option is to have your entire chimney system inspected by a chimney sweep. Once you know what to look for, you can perform the inspection by shining a bright flashlight up the flue, looking for any deposits approaching 1/8 inch thick. These deposits should be cleaned by an experienced chimney sweep.

Look for Flue Blockages: Birds love to nest at the top of an unprotected flue. A chimney cap can prevent this from happening. If you don’t have a cap, look up the flu to ensure that there are no obstructions.

Exercise the Damper: The damper is the metal plate that opens and closes the flu just above the firebox. Move it to the open and closed positions to ensure that it is working properly.

Check Your Chimney for Damage: Make certain that the flue cap (the screen or baffle covering the top of the chimney) is in place. Inspect brick chimneys for loose or broken joints. If access is a problem, use binoculars.

Related: Festive Fall Mantel Ideas

You may know that bone dry winter air is bad for your health, but did you also know it can make fine wood more prone to cracking? You and your home will feel more comfortable if you keep your central humidifier in tip-top shape during the months it is running.

First, inspect the plates or pads, and if necessary, clean them in a strong laundry detergent solution. Rinse and scrape off mineral deposits with a wire brush or steel wool.

Keeping a gas heater in good shape is both a safety and a cost issue. An improperly maintained heater can spew poisons into the air of your home, or it may simply be costing you more to operate. Have a professional check these devices annually. There are also some maintenance items you should address.

First, shut off the heater. Then check the air-shutter openings and exhaust vents for dirt and dust. If they are dirty, vacuum the air passages to the burner and clean the burner of lint and dirt. Follow the manufacturer’s advice for any other needed maintenance.

Woodburning stoves are a great way to add atmosphere and warmth to your home. But regular inspections are needed to ensure that these devices don’t become a safety hazard. Here’s how to check them.

Inspect Stovepipes: Cracks in stovepipes attached to wood stoves can release toxic fumes into your home. Throughout the heating season, you should check for corrosion, holes, or loose joints. Clean the stovepipe, and then look for signs of deterioration or looseness. Replace stovepipe if necessary.

Look for Corrosion and Cracks: Check for signs of rust or cracking in the stove’s body or legs.

Check Safety Features: Make sure that any required wall protection is installed according to the manufacturer’s specifications and that the unit sits on an approved floor material. If you have young children, be sure to fence off the stove when it is in operation.

Damaged walkways, drives, and steps are a hazard year-round, but their dangers are compounded when the weather turns icy. Fixing problems in the fall is also critical to preventing little problems from becoming expensive headaches.

Look for cracks more than 1/8-inch wide, uneven sections, and loose railings on steps. Check for disintegration of asphalt or washed-out materials on loose-fill paths. Most small jobs are well within the ability of a do-it-yourselfer, but save major repairs for experienced hands.

At least once a year, do a top-to-bottom review of your home’s safety features. This is also a good time to get the family together for a review of your fire evacuation plan. Here’s how to do this:

Smoke and CO Detectors: Replace the batteries in each smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector, then vacuum them with a soft brush attachment. Test the detectors by pressing the test button or holding a smoke source (like a blown-out candle) near the unit. If you haven’t already, install a smoke detector on every floor of your home, including the basement.

Fire Extinguishers: Every home should have at least one fire extinguisher rated for all fire types (look for an A-B-C rating on the label). At a minimum, keep one near the kitchen; having one per floor isn’t a bad idea. Annually, check the indicator on the pressure gauge to make sure the extinguisher is charged. Make certain that the lock pin is intact and firmly in place, and check that the discharge nozzle is not clogged. Clean the extinguisher and check it for dents, scratches, and corrosion. Replace if the damage seems severe. Note: Fire extinguishers that are more than six years old should be replaced. Mark the date of purchase on the new unit with a permanent marker.

Fire Escape Plans: Every bedroom, including basement bedrooms, should have two exit paths. Make sure windows aren’t blocked by furniture or other items. Ideally, each upper-floor bedroom should have a rope ladder near the window for emergency exits. Review what to do in case of fire, and arrange a safe meeting place for everyone away from the house.

General Cleanup: Rid your home of accumulations of old newspapers and leftover hazardous household chemicals. (Check with your state or local Environmental Protection Agency about the proper way to discard dangerous chemicals.) Store flammable materials and poisons in approved, clearly labeled containers. Keep a clear space around heaters, furnaces, and other heat-producing appliances.

Dusty condenser coils make your fridge work harder, making it less energy-efficient and shortening its life span. (There goes your ice cream budget.) Note that some refrigerators require special DIY cleaning techniques; others should be cleaned by a professional. Refer to the owner’s manual before you begin.

Twice a year; more often if you have pets.

Find the coils. They’re usually covered by a panel at the bottom front or on the back of a freestanding fridge and at the top of a built-in model. Unplug the fridge or turn off the power. If it’s not built-in, pull it away from the back wall. (Transferring food to a cooler lightens the load and gives you the chance to clean and organize inside.)

Take off the protective panel, put on a dust mask, and gently scrape across and between coils with a long-handled refrigerator brush ($10, The Home Depot). Follow up using the crevice tool attachment on your vacuum. And because you’re already up to your elbows in dust bunnies, clean the floor behind the fridge.

If your dishwasher has a manual-clean filter and you don’t take care of it, at some point you’ll notice an odor or food specks on your clean dishes.

Once a month.

Look under the bottom rack for the filter. (Some have two removable parts: a cylinder and a flat mesh screen. Check your owner’s manual for specifics.) Twist to remove it, then scrub it under hot water using an old toothbrush. For greasy grime, handwash with dish soap.

Thumbs up if you clean the lint trap before drying every load of laundry. However, you should also deal with lint buildup in the dryer duct; it’s an energy suck and a fire hazard. You can also cut down on future fuzz by installing a rigid metal duct, which won’t trap lint the way flexible ducts can, and routing the duct directly from the dryer to the outside.

At least once a year.

Pull the dryer away from the wall and unplug it. (If it’s a gas model, shut off the gas.) Disconnect the duct from the dryer and the wall, then loosen the lint inside with a long-handled brush or drill-powered cleaning kit designed for dryer ducts ($20, The Home Depot). Using a vacuum with a crevice tool attachment, suck up the lint on the floor and from the holes in the dryer and the wall. Brush and vacuum the vent outdoors, too.

Does your washing machine have a lint filter or a drain pump filter? You’ll find the answer in the owner’s manual. (If the filter is self-cleaning, you’re off the hook for this task.)

Once a month.

On a top-loading machine, the lint filter will likely be inside the drum or on the back. Most lint filters can be removed and rinsed under hot water.

A front-loader’s drain pump filter and hose are typically on the front. (Look for a little door.) Put a towel under a shallow pan on the floor, then remove the hose plug and let the water flow into the pan. If you haven’t done this for a while (or ever), expect as much as a quart of smelly water along with some crud. Then slowly unscrew the drain pump filter (water might flow or dribble out) and pull it out. You’ll probably find some slimy stuff; you might find loose items from pockets. Dump out the filter and wash it with water and a toothbrush.

Related: How to Clean Your Washing Machine for Fresh Clothes and Linens

You probably don’t think about cleaning your shower drain until you realize you’re standing in water after every shower. If your only problem is standing water, a hair clog is the most likely cause. If you notice an odor that won’t go away or you’re having the same problems with other drains, you could be facing a bigger issue and it’s probably best to contact a Handyman.

Before the water is ankle deep.

You’ll need a screwdriver, flashlight, wire hanger, and disposable plastic bag; you’ll want rubber gloves. Turn on the bathroom ventilation fan; it could get stinky. Remove the drain cover. Pull out the hair and gunk you can reach with your gloved fingers. Bend the wire hanger into a pole with a hook on the end, then fish around to see if you can snag anything else. Before putting the drain cover back on, you might want to install a special strainer that catches hair and gunk (ShowerShroom Hair CatcherDrain Protector, $13, Bed Bath & Beyond).

Clearing out gutters is a spring and fall job, but if you can’t remember the last time you did it and you don’t mind being on a ladder this time of year, do it now. Clogs can cause ice dams that damage your gutters and roof. Worse, when ice melts and doesn’t drain, it finds a way indoors. (Hello, wet ceilings.)

At least twice a year.

Put on work gloves and set up a ladder. Scoop out the leaves, twigs, and other junk with your hands and a trowel. Drop them in a bucket attached to the ladder or onto a drop cloth on the ground below.

Check for downspout clogs. Starting at the end farthest from the downspout, flush the gutter using a hose with a sprayer. If the water doesn’t rush out below, spray up the downspout or remove the downspout and flush it out.